How do strike anywhere matches work

Phosphorus Sesquisulfide 4 3 4 3 P 4 S 3 also ignites easily by friction. It burns itself out instantly after the match is lit but generates enough heat to ignite the aspen shank. Diamond released its patent for P 4 S 3 matches in so competitors could stop using an extremely dangerous alternative: white phosphorous. Match makers soak the wood with a solution of this stuff to make sure that when you blow the match out, melted MAP smothers any afterglow.

Ground or Powdered Glass First, it roughens the texture of the match head, helping to create friction wherever you strike it. Strike-anywhere matches do work when rubbed on just about any rough surface. You can ignite them on cement and rocks, for instance. A healthy beard stubble, as seen in cowboy movies, would require a high, volatile concentration of phosphorus.

Some matches are specially treated to work when wet. Because phosphorous is extremely flammable and can be accidentally ignited, these matches were made illegal in many places.

The volatility led to the invention of safety matches which require the abrasive, phosphorous containing strip. Within a few tries, you should get the hang of it.

If needed, try again. Matches don't always light on the first try. Don't worry if you don't get a flame immediately: simply repeat the striking motion again until you get a result. You may want to use a little extra pressure if you're worried that you were too gentle the first time. After a few unsuccessful attempts, the flammable material in the match head usually a mixture of potassium chloride and red phosphorus will rub off.

Hold the lit match away from the matchbook. You will know as soon as you light your match successfully. It will smoke and burst into flame almost instantly. At this point, grip the match near its base to protect your fingers from the flame and use the match to do whatever you need to do. Set the matchbook aside somewhere safe so that you don't accidentally catch it on fire. Congratulations — you've just lit your first match! Tear a single match from the booklet. Paper matches almost always come in small cardboard fold-over "book" — slip the flat piece of cardboard up to reveal a handful of small paper matches joined to the booklet at their bases.

To get a match ready to light, grab one of the matches, fold it so it points away from the others, and tear it out at its base. Paper matches are a little harder to light than wooden matches, but with a little practice, they're easily mastered.

Don't worry if you have to try the tricks in this section several times until you find a method that's right for you. Hold the match flat against the striker. There are a few different ways to light paper matches, but the easiest is a little different than the way you'd light a wooden match.

Start by laying the match down over the striker which is usually a small colored strip on the back of the matchbook. The head of the match should be in about the middle of the striker and the base of the match should stick out a little past the edge of the booklet. Fold the paper flap over to cover the match.

Without moving the match, bend the "cover" of the matchbook backward and fold it over the match. You should only be able to see the base of the matchstick poking out of the side of the matchbook. Feel for the round match head underneath the cardboard. Grab the matchbook here, putting gentle pressure on the match head through the cardboard with your thumb. Try to keep the match head well-covered by the cardboard cover.

If the edge of the match head is exposed when you strike the match, you can burn your thumb. Squeeze and pull! Grab the base of the match that is sticking out of the folded matchbook with your dominant hand.

Use your other hand to hold the booklet, pressing down on the match head. In one quick motion, squeeze down on the match head as you pull the match out of the booklet to the side. If done correctly, the friction between the striker and the match head should ignite the match head as you yank it out.

As with wooden matches, the match can sometimes fail to light even if you do everything. Be ready to try repeating the steps above a few times. If you don't get any results, flip the match over to expose the other side of the match head to the striker. Be careful — if you squeeze the matchbook too hard, you can tear off the match head when you try to light the match. This wastes the match, so try to avoid it if you're running low.

Alternatively, try lighting the match without folding the book. You can also light a paper match without squeezing it between the matchbook cover and the striker. This is a little trickier for beginners because it's easier to burn your fingers this way, but it is slightly quicker.

To try this method, use these steps: Hold the match in your dominant hand right with your thumb and middle finger. Put your index finger behind the match head. Hold the matchbook in your non-dominant hand.

Press down with your index finger and drag the match across the striker strip in a single quick motion — roughly like how you'd light a wooden match. As soon as you notice the match light, move your index finger away from the flame or transfer the match to your other hand. You have to do this quick to avoid burning yourself. Method 2. For best results, use "strike anywhere" matches for these tricks. You don't have to use the included striker to light most matches — as long as you build up enough friction to heat up the match head, you can strike many matches almost anywhere that's dry.

However, this is usually easiest if you use strike anywhere matches. As their name suggests, these matches are designed to light well on various surfaces. Strike anywhere matches are usually wood matches identified as such on the packaging.

Try striking on a rock. This trick is a must for campers, hikers, and anyone else who might want to improve their wilderness survival skills. For best results, you'll want to find a flat dry rock with a slightly "rough" or abrasive surface.

The texture should be similar to sidewalk concrete. As noted above, the rock also must be dry. If you can't find a dry rock, find a suitable wet rock, wipe it on your clothing, and carry it in your pocket for a few hours or set it somewhere dry. Hold the match between your middle finger and thumb and use your index finger to press the head into the rock.

This is the same technique you'd use to light a paper match without folding the cover over. The rougher the rock's surface is, the lighter you'll want to press to hit the friction "sweet spot" for lighting a flame. Try striking on rough building materials. If you're still in civilization but stuck without access to a match striker, you can usually use the materials around you in a pinch. Simply strike the match the same way you would if you were using a normal striker or a stone, using less pressure for rougher materials.

For this to work, however, the material you use must be completely dry. Just a few possibilities for materials to use include: Concrete Grout between tiles, etc. Brick Ceramic Keep in mind that striking matches can leave small marks on whatever material you're using, so you may not want to do it on other people's possessions.

This trick is handy when you're caught without a matchbook in the garage or workshop. Very fine finishing sand papers work best for this — rougher Sandpaper can rub the match head off without lighting it. Simply lay a small patch of the sandpaper on a flat surface, then press the match head into it and drag it across just like you'd use a normal striker. Never light matches around dry wood shavings which are common in many places sandpaper can be found. This highly flammable material can easily start fires.

Try cautiously striking on your zipper.