Why welded differential

Availability in the aftermarket is abundant, but the price is high along with a more complicated installation.

Not to mention that you now have switches and gadgets to operate on the trail as well. They work well, are simple, but can have some odd handling characteristics especially with high power, manual transmissions and short wheelbases. Longevity on the Lunchbox style is suspect, as the components do wear, and they rely on the strength of the original carrier design.

Typically, clutch materials and spring pressure is used to actuate the limited slip and they go though life mostly unnoticed. The added traction is mediocre and most clutch style Limited Slip differentials are toast before 60, kms and act as an open differential. Not our fave, but they have their place and are GREAT in snow and loose sandy materials when they are new.

Ultimately, a full case spool is a single chunk of steel that replaces the center carrier of your differential. No external components or special oils are required and they provide predictable traction.

If there is a weakness to be had, a spool is sure to find, and exploit it. If placed in the front axle of a vehicle, plan on the above symptom to be even worse, and kiss the notion of street driving goodbye unless you have locking hubs. All the above mentioned require some kind of cash outlay and possibly some professional installation of some sort.

As per our previous ramblings, we hardly make enough dineros at this job to buy two-ply toilet paper. With a Miller welder in our case! The end result is a basic spool that can be easily removed once we come to our senses and grow up, if ever. The advantages of using the age old DIY traction adder such as out Miller spool are plentiful, the first of which is the simplicity and basic outlay of cash, plus, if you have an extra set of carrier gears like we have, you can have amazing traction on the weekend and swap the original spider gears in for highway driving with no added tire wear or component stress.

We really need to lay down the law at this point and let you know that this is a dirt cheap, booty fab, last kick at the can traction adder for a vehicle that should see little or no time on the street, especially in a front application unless you have locking hubs and a lucky rabbits foot.

Ah, the welded differential, the back bone of any drift missile build. The Welded Differential is becoming very popular in the drift scene, as it is a cheaper option to keep both rear wheels spinning under load, and keeping away those unwanted one-wheel peels.

With a normal differential, the wheel on the inside of the turn has to rotate less than the wheel on the outside. This is because the wheel on the outside has a further distance to go, as it is on the long far side of the car from the corner. Bottom line, the outside wheel needs more revolutions than the inside wheel.

When a differential is welded, the axels are almost strung together and both wheels will rotate the same revolutions as each other. The wheels are now spinning at the same speed through a corner. Since the outer wheel needs to rotate a lot more than the inner wheel.

The inner wheel is forced to spin at the same amount as the outer wheel. This causes a car with a welded differential to behave very different than most cars on the road. If you are a street drifter and looking to weld your differential, but are worried about all the stuff people on the internet tell you, I am here to tell you to not worry. What I could do now is tell you that a welded differential can be dangerous, and will wear the tires quickly.

This means everything from the clutch all the way back to the axels, and even sometimes the wheel bearings. Welding the differential will put a large amount of stress on these components and the last thing you want is your left axle crumbling to bits mid corner. However, we will have to discuss the preservation of everything else. The harsher the steering input you give whilst rounding the corner, the more stress and hop there is going to be. So, there we have it! If you enjoyed this article, then please share it with the buttons at the side and bottom of your screen.

We appreciate your support. Tags: differential , welded diff. You can use this feature to rate this page. Filed under Beginner Guides. Open Diff vs. If that dude happens to be you, we apologize. And believe us — there will be plenty of upgrades! How A Welded Diff Works Typically, most cars come with an open differential, ensuring that the outside wheel turns faster than the inner wheel, enabling the most efficient and practical way of turning a corner. How To Weld A Diff Before you weld your diff, we recommend checking over your drivetrain to ensure that everything is healthy.

Step 1: Get yourself a welder You may have guessed, but at this point, the first step if doing this yourself is to purchase or borrow a welder! Step 4: Get welding! Allow it to cool down before moving on to the next stage. Yes — it is that simple! A fresh cover gasket will be ideal at this point if you have one to hand. Welded Diff vs. Where the open diff is never locked, and the welded diff permanently, the LSD allows both. And so we have two choices; Welded or 2-way?

Can you track a welded diff? How long does a welded diff last?